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  • 06 rubicon swap

    hey folks, tuning in from NS Canada here and started my swap a week ago. Making this post to pose a few questions and try and get a few things figured out.

    My first and main question is how important is the jntercooler. The jeep will be run for the first 4-6 months in 0C weather so I’m not certain cooling is going to be an issue. Finding it hard to source an IC for a decent price that will work with my setup right now. I’m also wondering what people are using for PS lines and reservoirs on the TJ’s.

    The engine is going into the bay for good tomorrow and the wiring is all but complete and I’m working out mounting solutions for the oil and fuel filter as I type. I’m planning to salvage the old PS lines and run them if I can. Cooling wise I think I have the coolant lines figured out but IC is giving me issues A with finding one and B with figuring out charge pipe.

    for the fuel tank, how are people sealing the supply and return tube and are there any sensors I’m going to need to put in for the fuel gauges?

    also any tips or advice for making the process as smooth as possible is appreciated. As time allows I’ll post my progress and pictures etc to help further installers

  • #2
    So a little update for today. Starting up today I had the motor mounts welded up and painted just left them overnight to cure. We spent the morning cleaning up loose ends with the trimming of the PCM harnesses and reinstalling and torquing the clutch assembly etc. Got the engine in mated and fully mounted pretty quickly which was a relief in itself. That kind of gave us a chance to have a look at what we were working with spacewise and what was going to be necessary going forward.

    First order of business once the engine was in and mounted was cleaning up any external loom and wiring that was needed and getting everything squared away. Pulled the remainder of the unnecessary components of the 4L and going from there.

    Once the wiring was done we started thinking about the PS lines. Our understanding is we'll need a reservoir that were hoping to get from a MK4 VW Beetle or a YJ if possible. We've got the return from the box to the reservoir rigged up and the tube we think we need for the reservoir to the pump. Still working on the pump to the steering box pressure line but I dont have the tools necessary to crimp hi pressure lines so we will see about that.

    Heater core is also taken care off. Took some reducing couples and the removal of the hardline that was on the engine but its in and happy with the positioning. I'm in a small town so sometimes you have to get creative with mounting haha.

    Mounting positions for the ECM, fuel filter and oil filter are also now taken care of and its not at the expense of anything else so thats a huge plus. the fuel filter is being mounted to the firewall and the we got a bracket made up to mount the oil filter to the inner fenders.

    We also figured a solution for the fuel lines. We used rubber fuel line and rigged up a return and supply line that pretty closely resembles the OEM setup. The fuel filter and pump is being left in the tank but disconnected and capped. This just saves the trouble of removing the assembly and finding a way to close off the huge hole that would've been left. It also saves my fuel gauge from being an issue so thats nice. (hopefully).

    Temporary charge pipe from the turbo to the intake is set up and will hopefully hold me over until I can find a suitable intercooler for permanent residency.

    Tomorrows plans are to finish connecting the Cummins harness to the engine side of things and taking care of the inginition wiring. Quick question for any of those that have encountered this. It appears that theres just a common coms wire that leaves the PCU and goes to the cluster. Where does that leave me wiring wise for usuability of the stock cluster or am I basically SOL? Just lookig for a straight answer so I can come up with solutions. After thats figured the fuel tank should be ready to be remounted and the fuel lines will be connected. Also hoping to get the oil and fuel filter mounted and ready as well as the ecm just to have it out of the way for now. Cooling piping will have to be done but thats going to wait until the grill is back in for good and the PS lines are finished up. I nicked a brake line too while I was removing the stock mounts so I have to replace those before we start rolling again.

    That covers my last 2 days of work on the swap. a couple weird things to figure out moving forward but it seems to be going smoothly.

    A few nagging questions I dont have answers to are mainly on the interior side, whats the deal with my cluster and how the heck am I going to remove the OEM gas pedal studs and mount the new pedal. If anyone has tips or advice for that let me know!

    Comment


    • #3
      Few things, I have not done a Jeep TJ swap so not sure I’m much help. For Intercoolers try cx racing or frozenboost. They may have something that will fit. I believe Fred ran a PT cruiser Intercooler on tube sock for a while.

      I know some have run the stock Jeep computer and wired in the Jeep sensors. Other than that many people have run autometer or Dakota universal guages and just make them work in the cluster.

      As as for the studs you can prolly just zip them off with a grinder?

      sorry I’m not much help....

      But welcome to repowerowners!

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by RePowerToy View Post
        Few things, I have not done a Jeep TJ swap so not sure I’m much help. For Intercoolers try cx racing or frozenboost. They may have something that will fit. I believe Fred ran a PT cruiser Intercooler on tube sock for a while.

        I know some have run the stock Jeep computer and wired in the Jeep sensors. Other than that many people have run autometer or Dakota universal guages and just make them work in the cluster.

        As as for the studs you can prolly just zip them off with a grinder?

        sorry I’m not much help....

        But welcome to repowerowners!
        Thanks! Got my intercooler setup underway and the pedal is fine now! going to look into some gauges soon.

        Comment


        • #5
          So today we got it rigged up so we could do an initial test fire to see if things are going decently. However when the ignition was turned on I got a skim light turn on. This essentially kicks me out of everything and I’m not sure what to do. It’s never come on before and has always turned over. I’m wondering what could have caused this

          Comment


          • #6
            The skim is most likely because of the Jeep ECM removal. The fuse block , computer, and key system are all coded alike normally.

            Comment


            • #7
              Sounds like a great build. Axis industries was talking about making something to reuse OEM Jeep gauges I think, but no idea if that happened. I failed to figure out how to read out the engine parameters from the Cummins ECU in some type of digital dash.

              On my 1997 Wrangler which is much simpler, I went with Dakota Digital VFD3 cluster. You'll have to go through a process to get the OEM fuel sending unit to work perfectly, but I've been using another variant that's close enough.

              I've still got some weird electrical issues in my Jeep. It doesn't help that the service manual for my Jeep doesn't have the correct wiring diagrams. But I do not have issues with the SKIM stuff from what I can tell. Mine is mostly just having an older high mileage Jeep combined with poor placement of the front OEM turn signals. Some poor decisions on my part as well and I'm 99% sure I used an incorrect wire for the gauges and I'm hoping that caused 2 of my problems, but 1 makes very little sense that my digital voltage gauge will read the water temp until it eventually goes back to reading voltage.

              I'd love to see how you routed stuff once you get a chance. And for the hoses, I'd check the thread types and you'll need a couple 90s and probably 1 adapter and you'll probably need to find a Parker store or tractor store that make the high pressure hoses for you. I still need to go back and work on my routing for my lines as well.

              Comment


              • #8
                It’s all finished up now. Still having ittermitant skim issues. It went away for a few days but I went to go to (attempt) to test start it and the code came back. I’m really at a loss as to what it is. All I removed from the oem harness was the things that were connected to the old engine. Other than that everything is still the same. I can’t figure it out. Right now it’s the only thing preventing me from getting it running

                Comment


                • #9
                  I've seen stuff on the SKIM before only on forums when I was doing my swap. As you're not the first to do a motor swap maybe there's a bit more info from many of the V8 builds that seem common. I thought somewhere on the net I saw some sort of tutorials for deleting this system. I wish I could be of help, but luckily this was a non-issue for me though I did have systems I never knew were in my Jeep until I removed them.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Well I seem to have gotten rid of the code for now. I have a reman’d pcm on order without skim. I live in a safe area and have one of the most recognizable rigs in town. My old jeep had no skim and I never had any issues so I will be getting rid of it. I’m mostly scared of it locking me out 30 clicks down a trail than anything.

                    My final question is how I should check for continuity in the ignition switch? I’m not sure if the picture will work but where the 1 pin connector goes into the ignition switch it doesn’t seem like there’s an area to poke a meter into to check for continuity. Should I just start guessing wires and trying it out?

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                    • #11
                      Can’t get the thing primed. Probably pumped it 400 times and it’s not giving me much resistance

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Well maybe check voltage in the start and run position and find the wire with 12V in both states. Just find a good ground on 1 side.

                        Something isn't right if you're pumping and there's not much resistance. Axis told me to fill up the fuel filter first and then start priming. I didn't fill it up and pumped a bit under 200 times and I couldn't get the pump arm closed I was so worn out.

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                        • #13
                          Which wire did it end up being? I ask this, as you're not the first to need this info. Hopefully the correct wire will help someone else out.

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                          • #14
                            Dug a little deeper into the FSM for the 4L and found the correct ignition wire. For 05/06 I think the colors are the same. Mine ended up being a pink with light green tracer into the switch. Started right up.

                            To prime it I ended up having to drop the line out to the floor and suck on the line a few times until the fuel came out. Diesels not as bad as you’d think haha. After that she primed quite quickly.

                            Haven’t taken it out of the shop yet just finishing up a few mounting issues. Pedal is responsive and coolant lines and power steering seem to be doing okay. Right now I have temp charged air solutions. Intercooler is going on tomorrow, just need to make sure I don’t hit boost on the drive to the new shop.

                            Still getting some codes come up on the murphy guage but I’ll deal with those as they come. Everything seems to be working fine.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Well I’ve got around 80 km on it now just going around town making sure things are okay. It’s sputtering quite a bit and doesn’t feel like it has much power. Thought it might just be air bubbles in the fuel lines but it’s worse today. My skim light just randomly came on again as well. Made it to the shop and then once I turned it off it just died on me. Not sure what’s going on.

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