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1993 FZJ80 Cummins R2.8 Swap

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  • 1993 FZJ80 Cummins R2.8 Swap

    Its time to bring some info over to this forum.
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/cum...fzj80.1113100/

    Maybe someone on here can help me do the MAF recal? This pedal dance shit is getting really old.

  • #2
    Clearly we have good info on this forum being you are asking for help? Or I’m taking your statement to literally.....

    As for a MAF cal give us some info on the build? What intake, did you use the stock maf tube? are you getting codes? Elaborate on the issue.....

    The maf cal is simple enough but make sure you are getting WOT on the pedal, I have seen them act up if the pedal hits the carpet, etc.

    Comment


    • #3
      Post some build information and we can help I’m sure. But I know I do not have time to go through 19 pages of a build.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'm not to be taken literally. I meant no offense.
        Lets see here.
        1993 Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser
        R2.8 obviously
        H151 Manual transmission
        Toyota Factory air intake box, not using the factory cummins air intake tube.

        As of right now I have two problems that are related to the cummins engine.
        First is that the alternator does not work so my system voltage is low causing an error code to be displayed.
        Second is that the engine runs like crap at low rpm or at part throttle.

        Thing runs great with MAF sensor pulled out of tube, I drove it all over the neighborhood today, first time I have driven car in about 16 months!

        Other than that I am slighly concerned with the amount of smoke coming out of the crank vent and the amount of blue smoke in the exhaust on start up. This thing smokes like my 1999 24


        valve. Click image for larger version

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        Click image for larger version

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        There are crappy pictures of the parts I used to do my intake system.

        Comment


        • #5
          How many straight free flowing inches of air do you have before and after the maf. Maf sensors are very very sensitive to this. I know a few running a system like yours and they require a lot of custom tuning to make run properly

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          • #6
            I would do a test with the stock maf tube if you can. Just let it sit with or without a filter. This will answer the first question if it’s all Maf related.
            As for electrical, what gauge wire do you have on alternator. Also unplug and re plug the small black wire plug on the back of the alternator. Try dielectric grease as well.

            Comment


            • #7
              I cut up the stock tube in my first attempt to construct an intake system. I will have to get a new one.

              As you can see there is not much length before and after the sensor that is straight, fixing that will be tricky.

              There is a very smooth transition between a rectangular and circular cross section, not sure what the effect of that is, I dont have CFD software.

              I could design a new MAF housing, problem is that I dont have lots of space to play with if I am hell bent on using the factory airbox, which I am. Why throw away what makes a Land Cruiser a Land Cruiser?

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              • #8
                First is that the alternator does not work so my system voltage is low causing an error code to be displayed.

                [/QUOTE]

                What code were you getting? I got a code the other day and I was on the road and wasn't sure what was going on. I had no ill effects. Then it went away the next morning.

                SPN03597 FMI 02 OC 001

                Comment


                • #9
                  I am curious how it runs like crap at part throttle and low rpm? Is it just way down on power until the turbo kicks in? Mine has always behaved that way, I blamed it on the torque converter at first, it got better after I swapped it, but still not good. I then blamed it on the 4.10 gears, changed the gears to 5.38, but it is still really down on power until the turbo kicks in. I have the Cummins intake tube with plenty of straight pipe on mine.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by R2.8Samauri View Post
                    I am curious how it runs like crap at part throttle and low rpm? Is it just way down on power until the turbo kicks in? Mine has always behaved that way, I blamed it on the torque converter at first, it got better after I swapped it, but still not good. I then blamed it on the 4.10 gears, changed the gears to 5.38, but it is still really down on power until the turbo kicks in. I have the Cummins intake tube with plenty of straight pipe on mine.
                    I've kinda wondered if it's under powered until the turbo kicks in or is the turbo just kick in so abruptly. Of course I'm used to a 5.9 Cummins, when the turbo isn't kicked in I've got an inline 6 5.9L engine, not a 4 cylinder 2.8 L engine. I was kinda hoping this would be less noticeable when I do my gear change, but I'm only going from 3.07 to 3.55.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by R2.8Samauri View Post
                      I am curious how it runs like crap at part throttle and low rpm? Is it just way down on power until the turbo kicks in? Mine has always behaved that way, I blamed it on the torque converter at first, it got better after I swapped it, but still not good. I then blamed it on the 4.10 gears, changed the gears to 5.38, but it is still really down on power until the turbo kicks in. I have the Cummins intake tube with plenty of straight pipe on mine.
                      This is due to programming somewhat, the software is trying not to smoke. It doesn’t allow full fuel without boost so it doesn’t smoke. Converter should have helped but depends on stall. Most production automotive diesel cars and trucks have some “lag” normally blamed on turbo but turbo is only half of the equation. Hence why twin turbos have become a norm on production vehicles.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by nframe View Post
                        I cut up the stock tube in my first attempt to construct an intake system. I will have to get a new one.

                        As you can see there is not much length before and after the sensor that is straight, fixing that will be tricky.

                        There is a very smooth transition between a rectangular and circular cross section, not sure what the effect of that is, I dont have CFD software.

                        I could design a new MAF housing, problem is that I dont have lots of space to play with if I am hell bent on using the factory airbox, which I am. Why throw away what makes a Land Cruiser a Land Cruiser?
                        I can appreciate trying to keep the stock box other than the precleaner function of it is very restrictive at high demand. Have gutted many of the same style intakes due to the vacuum they create on the intake. That said, I think your problem is the amount of clean air you have moving across the MAF. I looked at an 80 intake we have here and depending on routing I bet you can get more MaF with some tricky hose work. I would say see about changing up the hose routing if you can. It doesn’t care how long the intake is (within reason) just the straight clean air.

                        Comment


                        • #13

                          [/QUOTE]

                          What code were you getting? I got a code the other day and I was on the road and wasn't sure what was going on. I had no ill effects. Then it went away the next morning.

                          SPN03597 FMI 02 OC 001[/QUOTE]

                          At quickserve.cummins.com, you can type in your ESN, go to service, and look up the fault codes complete with trouble shooting guides. Your code indicated that your ECM detected a drop in power from the ignition switch while the engine was at speed.
                          434 Amber Power Supply Lost With Ignition On - Data Erratic, Intermittent, or Incorrect

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            If you are experiencing stumbles or smoke on the low end, the very first thing to do is to make sure you've successfully run the MAF offset correction. Here's how: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bOkY0iALwco

                            You can run this multiple times and it will override the previous cal. I do it every time I change my filter or fiddle with plumbing.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by nframe View Post

                              As of right now I have two problems that are related to the cummins engine.
                              First is that the alternator does not work so my system voltage is low causing an error code to be displayed.
                              Second is that the engine runs like crap at low rpm or at part throttle.

                              Thing runs great with MAF sensor pulled out of tube, I drove it all over the neighborhood today, first time I have driven car in about 16 months!

                              Other than that I am slighly concerned with the amount of smoke coming out of the crank vent and the amount of blue smoke in the exhaust on start up. This thing smokes like my 1999 24 valve..
                              You may have already solved these, but for problem number one, check for continuity on the ground side to the battery. We've see customers not using ground straps on engines or using aftermarket mega brackets which can interrupt the ground path and send this fault. It's also good practice to just directly ground your alternator although not mandated in the instructions.

                              For the blue smoke out the tailpipe at start, that would indicate your MAF calibration is still off. I saw the beautiful piece of machined aluminum and my concern is the same as RePowerToy's that you may not be able to get a good reading across the sensor in a tube that short. The one we provide is at the minimum straight length as required by the sensor manufacturer. Some OE applications try to get around that by putting straightening grids in front of the sensor but I'm not sure how effective that would be.

                              Lastly - the crankcase breather "smoke" you are seeing is actually oil mist being discharged from the vacuum pump when it goes from load to no load. It is lubricated by engine oil and releases that mist back into the crank case which can visibly be seen at times if you don't plum it back into your intake. It is NOT blowby as some suspect.

                              Hope this helps!
                              Last edited by Sanders; 10-08-2019, 09:16 PM.

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