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  • Planning my CJ 2.8 Swap

    Alright y'all. I'm starting to do as much planning for a swap as I can without the actual engine here. My goal is to have my Jeep planned out where it will only take one week (well, two weekends, one work week) to do the physical engine swap utilizing the Quick Draw AX-15 swap kit and engine mounts, I'm not trying to recreate the wheel here.

    That being said, I have some questions I need help answering.
    1. Intercooler and tubing sizing
      1. I'm under the assumption that I can use 2.5" piping for the intercooler
      2. I'm planning on using this intercooler from Summti https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-260003
        1. My only question here is are these big enough? From looking at the Mishimoto and Garret websites it looks like that particular intercooler is plenty big, is 2.5" piping big enough though?
    2. Exhaust
      1. I was originally planning on doing a V8 swap and using 3" pipe, should I stick to that plan or can I downsize to 2.5"?
      2. Muffler suggestions?
      3. I have to redo my exhaust regardless of final engine choice.
    3. Fuel filter
      1. First and foremost, how big is that actual filter assembly? The Cummins docs give you sizes for nearly everything, except the overall fuel filter assembly, I'd like that to help plan out placement.
      2. Speaking of placement; where's the best place for it? Currently I've got two locations in my head where I'd like it, but I don't know if either are realistic.
      3. Filter sizing: I found (somewhere during a google rabbit hole) that you can run smaller filters on it, is that advisable? My first notion is NO.
    4. Oil Filter
      1. Quick Draw sells the front housing that eliminates the remote oil filter. This SOUNDS like it would make install much easier and cleaner in a CJ. Does anyone have experience with this?
    5. Pedal Assy.
      1. Quick Draw also sells a bracket that eliminates the use of Cummins' pedal so you can retain the stock pedal. I hadn't really considered keeping the stock pedal, but once I saw Quick Draw offers this I'm considering it. I could also keep my hand throttle.
    6. Radiator Overflow
      1. Do I NEED to use a deaeration/expansion tank or can I use the CJ overflow tank. I would much prefer to use the OE CJ tank.

    I think those are my major questions. I'm not planning to even purchase the engine until at least the second half of next year. My Jeep is my daily driver and I have a few things I want to take care of before I start setting money aside for this purchase, but while I'm saving I want to do as much planning ahead of time as I can.
    Last edited by orange150; 10-29-2021, 08:50 PM.
    '82 CJ-8

  • #2
    Originally posted by orange150 View Post
    Alright y'all. I'm starting to do as much planning for a swap as I can without the actual engine here. My goal is to have my Jeep planned out where it will only take one week (well, two weekends, one work week) to do the physical engine swap utilizing the Quick Draw AX-15 swap kit and engine mounts, I'm not trying to recreate the wheel here.

    That being said, I have some questions I need help answering.
    1. Intercooler and tubing sizing
      1. I'm under the assumption that I can use 2.5" piping for the intercooler
      2. I'm planning on using this intercooler from Summti https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-260003
        1. My only question here is are these big enough? From looking at the Mishimoto and Garret websites it looks like that particular intercooler is plenty big, is 2.5" piping big enough though?
    2. Exhaust
      1. I was originally planning on doing a V8 swap and using 3" pipe, should I stick to that plan or can I downsize to 2.5"?
      2. Muffler suggestions?
      3. I have to redo my exhaust regardless of final engine choice.
    3. Fuel filter
      1. First and foremost, how big is that actual filter assembly? The Cummins docs give you sizes for nearly everything, except the overall fuel filter assembly, I'd like that to help plan out placement.
      2. Speaking of placement; where's the best place for it? Currently I've got two locations in my head where I'd like it, but I don't know if either are realistic.
      3. Filter sizing: I found (somewhere during a google rabbit hole) that you can run smaller filters on it, is that advisable? My first notion is NO.
    4. Oil Filter
      1. Quick Draw sells the front housing that eliminates the remote oil filter. This SOUNDS like it would make install much easier and cleaner in a CJ. Does anyone have experience with this?
    5. Pedal Assy.
      1. Quick Draw also sells a bracket that eliminates the use of Cummins' pedal so you can retain the stock pedal. I hadn't really considered keeping the stock pedal, but once I saw Quick Draw offers this I'm considering it. I could also keep my hand throttle.
    6. Radiator Overflow
      1. Do I NEED to use a deaeration/expansion tank or can I use the CJ overflow tank. I would much prefer to use the OE CJ tank.

    I think those are my major questions. I'm not planning to even purchase the engine until at least the second half of next year. My Jeep is my daily driver and I have a few things I want to take care of before I start setting money aside for this purchase, but while I'm saving I want to do as much planning ahead of time as I can.
    Intercooler: I'm using a Ford Focus ST intercooler with 2.5" pipes. Works fine.

    Exhaust, if you can reuse the majority of the 3", I would.

    Muffler, use whatever you want. I have a small glass-pack style magnaflow (i think) and the exhaust is so muffled by the turbo and DOC, I don't need it. The engine clatter is louder than my tailpipe.

    Overflow. Use a proper expansion tank. The EGR cooler is the highest point in the system. You get air trapped there and you'll probably melt it.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Digger View Post

      Intercooler: I'm using a Ford Focus ST intercooler with 2.5" pipes. Works fine.

      Exhaust, if you can reuse the majority of the 3", I would.

      Muffler, use whatever you want. I have a small glass-pack style magnaflow (i think) and the exhaust is so muffled by the turbo and DOC, I don't need it. The engine clatter is louder than my tailpipe.

      Overflow. Use a proper expansion tank. The EGR cooler is the highest point in the system. You get air trapped there and you'll probably melt it.
      The exhaust will be all new, currently it's some hacked together junk that's been on there for at least 20 years. Sounds like I will plan on 3" though.
      For simplicities sake, does it even need a muffler if it's that quiet?

      That's a bummer on the expansion tank! That's going to take some thinking to make look decent. Are there any off the shelf options that people have used?
      '82 CJ-8

      Comment


      • #4
        I've seen quite a few people use this tank:
        https://www.amazon.com/Peopop-Univer...534524531&th=1

        However it doesn't have a pressure relief cap. If you have a Pick-N-Pull style savage yard nearby, just cruise around one day looking at the expansion tanks. I ended up with an OE style tank and it works well.
        Click image for larger version

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        • #5
          Awesome, thanks Digger

          Summit also makes a cost effective one either with or without a pressure relief cap.
          '82 CJ-8

          Comment


          • #6
            You don't need a muffler if you've got the DOC. I have been driving my TJ with the R2.8 for 3 years ~15k mi and still have 0 exhaust and the tires are probably louder on the road than the exhaust. I'm relocating my DOC whenever I do my exhaust and I'll try to measure the sound difference when I remove the DOC for a comparison.

            I'm gonna run 2.5" exhaust for mine and I plan to just go straight pipe. Also I like a little bit of the diesel sound. Jeeps are just so loud that the exhaust really isn't that bad. If you're planning to mildly tune the 2.8, I'm guessing the 2.5" will be fine, but I simply don't know. I'll probably still do a mild tune for my R2.8 and I'm gonna run 2.5" exhaust, because since I'm running the AX-15 I could already probably break my transmission, but I just want the tune to resemble normal driving and reliability vs what the EPA wants since they tend to mess up more than they fix.

            I think I'd keep your filters remote, but it's a must on the TJs because the front axle is already so close to the oil cooler and if you don't get your jounce bumper right, you're buying a new oil cooler or worse.

            I ran a really simple universal overflow tank for a month or 2 before my Axis Overflow tank came in. I haven't had any issues. My level of coolant was likely under the EGR and I've had no issues. I run my radiator more like an old piece of equipment where the level isn't completely full in the radiator when it's cold and then the tank is more of a catch can. I'm not suggesting this, but it's just never been an issue for me. IMO the the Axis cooling kit runs too cold, which is odd because I've talked with multiple people having issues with overheating. Of course I haven't been plugging in my EGR valve since I got my tach working either since I'd rather keep the engine life.

            It might be time for a spreadsheet before you start the build.

            What gauges are you going with?

            Good luck and keep posting. I love learning from these builds.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by DieselJeep View Post
              You don't need a muffler if you've got the DOC. I have been driving my TJ with the R2.8 for 3 years ~15k mi and still have 0 exhaust and the tires are probably louder on the road than the exhaust. I'm relocating my DOC whenever I do my exhaust and I'll try to measure the sound difference when I remove the DOC for a comparison.

              I'm gonna run 2.5" exhaust for mine and I plan to just go straight pipe. Also I like a little bit of the diesel sound. Jeeps are just so loud that the exhaust really isn't that bad. If you're planning to mildly tune the 2.8, I'm guessing the 2.5" will be fine, but I simply don't know. I'll probably still do a mild tune for my R2.8 and I'm gonna run 2.5" exhaust, because since I'm running the AX-15 I could already probably break my transmission, but I just want the tune to resemble normal driving and reliability vs what the EPA wants since they tend to mess up more than they fix.
              I need to look up laws in VA (recently moved here from NC where my Jeep didn't need to be inspected) to see if I'm required to have a muffler. If not I'm thinking I will just straight pipe it, or at least run one of those drag race mufflers.

              Originally posted by DieselJeep View Post
              I think I'd keep your filters remote, but it's a must on the TJs because the front axle is already so close to the oil cooler and if you don't get your jounce bumper right, you're buying a new oil cooler or worse.
              One thing to keep in mind is that CJs are passenger drop and leaf sprung. I don't have any plans to link it. What I don't have a good sense of is how far down the filter would hang. Also, if you follow Axis on instagram it looks like Cummins is now shipping the 2.8 without the remote oil filter. Sanders is that true?

              Originally posted by DieselJeep View Post
              I ran a really simple universal overflow tank for a month or 2 before my Axis Overflow tank came in. I haven't had any issues. My level of coolant was likely under the EGR and I've had no issues. I run my radiator more like an old piece of equipment where the level isn't completely full in the radiator when it's cold and then the tank is more of a catch can. I'm not suggesting this, but it's just never been an issue for me. IMO the the Axis cooling kit runs too cold, which is odd because I've talked with multiple people having issues with overheating. Of course I haven't been plugging in my EGR valve since I got my tach working either since I'd rather keep the engine life.
              My plan as of right now is to go with that Summit tank unless I find something else out. Again, I can't quite tell how high the engine will sit in the engine compartment, but it would be nice to just weld a bung to the radiator for the EGR vent.

              Originally posted by DieselJeep View Post
              It might be time for a spreadsheet before you start the build.

              What gauges are you going with?

              Good luck and keep posting. I love learning from these builds.
              As of right now I've got my original spreadsheet where I put a cost model together between a 351w and the 2.8. The 2.8 was more expensive but I had to use a lot of allowances for things unknown, if my allowances are conservative than the delta will decrease. I'm going to track the actual purchase price of parts as I go through it.

              I'm also planning on either using the OE gauges or the SpeedHut CJ gauge package, just depends on if I want to spend the money or not. And of course the Murphy gauge.

              Don't worry I'm going to keep updating, but like I said it will be slow! I'm not made of money and I have some saving to do!
              '82 CJ-8

              Comment


              • #8
                VA has some tough requirements I think, but I think the age of your CJ may negate the issues. Have a buddy with a mechanical diesel swap in VA and he ended up having to change engines, partly due to regs, but his Jeep is post OBD2, which I think caused him issues.

                My oil filter is something like 6" to 8" long and it would scare me hanging down that far. Sorry I'm at work, but somewhere there's alternate serial numbers for filters and you can probably find specs.

                Considering my buddy is in VA and doesn't have emission equipped diesels, I'd highly suggest deleting the EGR. I don't know anyone that claims there's ANY benefit for EGR on a diesel. Even the NOx and SOx have proven to not do what they say it does to people in real world conditions and the SOx are much smaller due to ULSD. The conditions in which it is bad for you would be to exercise in your garage with the diesel engine running and almost no ventilation on a repeated and/or prolonged basis. Your economy and engine life will be increased as well. I wouldn't mention you deleted it to the world and I'd never delete it, but it should be deleted...

                I originally did a cost spreadsheet to try and justify it, but it was vs just rebuilding my 4.0L and I simply can't justify that financially eventhough over decades the MPG being 50% better compared to 10% increase in fuel cost. If I didn't have a rack and didn't have mud tires my MPG would be more than double what I was getting before the swap when I didn't have the rack.

                However my spreadsheet vs buying a new vehicle the way I wanted it, the swap blows it out of the water for the most part, though resale would have actually done much better on the newer vehicle that would be very hard to predict at that time (and I don't plan on selling). Also I realized the benefits of the swap aren't really MPG, but it's more the torque, range, novelty and simplicity. Also I just think the majority of 4x4s are substantially better when they're diesel and you're not racing or doing something specialty. I just can't tell you the little joys I get, like not having to crack open a gas can and fill up the tank in the hot sun because my range is so much better and diesel isn't a horrible flammable fuel to deal with.

                I told my wife, the good thing about her Tacoma is that she can show off all the Rotopax fuel containers we'll have to get to have a respectable range. Of course once they turn into balloons, they suck to deal with and I'm an idiot and I always forget to look away when I remove the cap from the containers and spray myself with gasoline.

                Comment

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