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97 Jeep TJ Repower R2.8

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  • #16
    The jeep sending unit is an odd duck. It runs from 20-270 ohms which is close to a stewart warner gauge that is 33-240. I decided to go with an aftermarket sending unit that will be a 0-90 and will easily match my gauges. I ordered some billet aluminum to make a custom plate to go where the stock fuel sender was. I will start posting some pictures soon. Tomorrow I hope to cut off the motor mounts and trial fit the engine.

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    • #17
      Motor mounts are off and so far several test fits of the engines in the chassis. I have some clearance issues with the firewall by using the quickdraw adapter. I have now unbolted the transfer case mount to try and move transmission and transfercase forward. I might have to shorten my front driveline to get the space I need move everything forward. The motor mounts I purchased are from AXIS industries and they are designed to work with their adapter that has the engine sitting several inches forward, so this might work better. The egr cooler hits the firewall on the passenger side and I had to remove some of the pinchweld by the starter on the driverside, but now I think it will be worth the time to move everything forward.

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      • #18
        Engine is in! I had to move the transmission/double/transfercase forward two inches to make everything work. Everything looks good, AXIS motor mounts are welded and transfercase mount is secured. The rear driveshaft is 2 inches too short and then I had a thought, the front driveshaft yoke is about two inches longer than the rear driveshaft yoke, both driveshafts are custom Tom Woods pieces. I put the longer front yoke on the rear driveshaft and PERFECT! . Front shaft needs 2 inches cut off of the splines that are a long spline design, so plenty to remove. My next goal is is to machine a custom top for my fuel tank to hold the sending unit and attach the fuel pick up tube. Then figure out the best way to mount the intercooler and plumb some lines.
        Last edited by nuffsaid; 07-04-2022, 02:21 PM.

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        • #19

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          • #20
            Top for the fuel tank is machined, all that is left is to drill and tap 5 holes for the sending unit and drill and tap for the fuel pickup tube. Pictures tomorrow hopefully.

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            • #21

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              • #22
                Fuel tank mods are done. I epoxied the fuel pickup tube so it can’t vibrate off and leave me stranded. The pickup is 3/8 aluminum tubing attached with a compression fitting.
                Front driveline is modified and back in the Jeep. Next order of business will probably plumbing and mounting intercooler and radiator and running power steering hoses.
                Last edited by nuffsaid; 06-04-2022, 02:01 AM.

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                • #23
                  Made a little progress today, ran one power steering line, adjusted the linkage on the Atlas II transfer case. Does anyone know how if the oem fuel vents will work ok for returning the fuel to the tank?

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                  • #24

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                    • #25
                      Cooling system is mostly done. Driver’s side fender fits, tomorrow I will check fit of passenger side fender. I might have to take a break on the build since my first grandchild is due anytime and I still don’t have my installation kit from Cummins

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                      • #26
                        I had to take a little break from the engine install as my daughter was giving birth to my first grandson! I got my fuel tank back in, and started taking apart the main wiring harness to remove unneeded wires. Yesterday the fed ex truck showed up and Cummins overnighted my installation kit! Time for the wiring to start, I hope to make good progress today.

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                        • #27
                          I wired up the intellitronix digital gauges and couldn't figure out why my oil pressure gauge wasn't lighting up, checked all the wiring and then took off the tinted cover and hmmm, the oil pressure was lit up. Turns out that the black out part that blocks light had two cut outs that were still in place, fixed. Installed the gas pedal assembly and spliced in a hot in run and crank wire feed. Also wired in a gps speedometer sending unit. Tomorrow I will go back under the hood and wire the starter, grid heater and electric fan and possibly do a test fire up! Getting close! I have 2.5 inch stainless steel exhaust ready to weld up, but I am on the fence as to whether straight pipe or use an existing magnaflow muffler, kind of leaning towards a straight pipe! Fuel lines are done, gauges are done, still need to test fit the intake tubing, but it will be better to wait until the fenders are back on. I am still on the fence as to whether to try and repurpose the relays in the power distribution box or just run new relays. I will sleep on it. There are quite a few unused relays in the power distribution box. I ended up using a relay spot in the power distribution box to power up the electric fan. Wiring is mostly done, fluids are in, right fender is back on and air intake is in, might need a tweak later. grid heater solenoid is wired and a spot has been picked for it. I might need to shorten a grid heater battery cable tomorrow, then install the left fender and go hot with the wiring. Hope to fire her up tomorrow, then decide whether to repurpose a magnaflow muffler or run a 2.5 inch stainless straight pipe.

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                          • #28
                            Exhaust is run, wiring all hooked up, but I have an issue. The starter isn’t turning over. I checked the starter relay and I have power, tried jumping the two terminals in the power distribution box relay circuit and nothing. In the manual it shows grounding the starter, I didn’t, could that be the issue. I will run a ground to the starter tomorrow.

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                            • #29
                              I just went out to put a battery charger on the Jeep and couldn't resist. I turned the key on and tried the key switch, nothing. I removed the spade terminal from the starter and reinstalled it. I grabbed a jumper wire and pulled the relay out and jumped across the two terminals and she fired off instantly and ran smooth. Murphy gauge has a lot of codes, but not sure why. I will see if I can figure them out. I need to run a feed wire for my premier power welder so the alternator will trigger, the factory wire won't make it work. So now my dilemma is why 1) I can't jump from the two terminals in the relay box and make the starter turn over, maybe a poor connection. Both terminals should be hot, but only one is. Fuse seems ok, but maybe there is some poor connection. My tach seems to be reading about twice as many rpms as it should. I have it set for a 4 cyl engine, maybe I need to try an 8 cylinder setting.

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                              • #30
                                I got the starter circuit figured out, I simply had to ground the oem starter relay and now it works like it should. I also found that several of the relay wires in the power distribution box had fallen out. I had to install the relay and then plug the wires back in from the under side of the box. I will need to hot glue them in place, because it doesn't seem like the plastic tabs are holding. I used the 8 cylinder setting on the intellitronix tachometer and it reads within 30 roms of the murphy gauge. I took the Jeep out to the badlands and crossed up the suspension in a wash to check clearance of the short oil filter and I have 4 inches of clearance with a rear tire ready to come off the ground. The centerforce II clutch is smooth and solid, power is very good a very drivable. I only got to test drive for about 30 minutes and about 5 miles, I had a big smile on my face! I got my premier power welder hooked up the the feed wire that cummins runs to the alternator from the factory wouldn't work to trigger my premier modified alternator, so I repurposed the stock fuel pump relay to supply power to the alternator wiring. Alternator is now putting out a steady 14.0 volts and my welder should be ready to operate. I might try to build an adjustable rod to apply pressure to the gas pedal to get the rpms needed for welding. I can add a couple of pins to the ecm and add a momentary switch to change idle rpms, but it will only allow me to go to about 1100 rpms and I might 2000 rpms for full power.
                                Drivability is excellent, the engine revs up great while accelerating and running it up to about 3000 rpms allows for a snappy acceleration while grabbing gears. I only ran it up to about 65 mph, but I was only one mile from the shop when I turned to the dirt. I still need to come up with some sort of pressure relief valve for the cooling system, because right now it is basically a totally closed system and I don't know if the pressure cap on the radiator would bleed off coolant and pressure if it got too hot since the overflow tube is plumbed into the overflow/anti air tank that has a solid sealing cap. I am thinking about installing a pressure relief valve in the cap.
                                Last edited by nuffsaid; 07-04-2022, 02:40 PM.

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