97 Jeep TJ Repower R2.8

[nuffsaid]

[rud404]

Great looking install! Nice to see another re-power project hitting the road (or trail).

[nuffsaid]

Took a ride in the Jeep into the Big Horn Mountains today. From the base of the mountains to the upper level is about 15 miles straight up of about 10-15% grade. About half way up my coolant temp hit 225F and triggered a check engine light. I let the engine cool for a few minutes to where it was back to 190 and continued up. Once I got up to around 9000 ft the air was cooler and the engine ran at about 180 for the rest of the day until I headed home and got on the valley floor with temps over 90 I couldn't drive more than 55 mph without getting the coolant up to 220F. The engine did a great job on the trails with most RPM's spent between 800 and 2500. The Murphy gauge showed my fuel consumption at about 8 gallons of fuel for 11 hours of driving, not bad. I have one small oil leak to address where my aftermarket oil sender screws in and I have a slight kiss on the bottom of the oil filter from just barely making contact with the front axle pumkin while flexing over some huge boulders. I am beginning to question if the allow works fan actually pulls 3000 cfm as advertised. Note: check engine light is from an egr malfunction, not overheat.

[DieselJeep]

What radiator did you end up with?

[nuffsaid]

I have a one year old aluminum radiator that I bought from summit racing, between this radiator and a new fan clutch, it stopped my 4.0 from over heating. I am just not impressed with the volume of air that the electric fan pulls. It is rated at 3000 cfm, but I highly doubt it is anywhere near that. I just ordered the mechanical fan adapters from quick draw industries, I thought about trying to machine my own, but I don't have the material I need to make them. Hopefully I fixed my oil pressure sender oil leak too. I didn't loose a lot of oil, but it sure made a mess.

[Sanders]

You can't go wrong with the 4.0 HD mechanical fan/adapter setup if you have the space. For E-fans, the only "affordable" one I've had luck with is the taurus fan and that's when it's properly baffled etc. It's very important to make sure the air is being forced through your cooling package stack and not able to get around it instead. makes a HUGE difference.

On our Cummins test TJ, I got tired of fighting e-fan relays and we made a ZJ 4.0 mechanical fan and HD clutch adapter and used a 4.0 shroud... factory radiator. Stays cool no matter what! On my Rover, I've got a taurus fan with factory radiator and the difference in that working and not was the baffling I did.

[nuffsaid]

Do you know what to do with the 1896 code I have right now? I think maybe the egr is stuck, because I can’t clear the code. How can I get warranty because I think the egr needs to be replaced or do you have a different idea?

[DieselJeep]

Do you know what to do with the 1896 code I have right now? I think maybe the egr is stuck, because I can’t clear the code. How can I get warranty because I think the egr needs to be replaced or do you have a different idea?

Have you logged into Cummins where you can look up the codes and stuff?

I suggest finding a local Cummins service center or whatever they are called and they seem to be pretty helpful, though they seemed very surprised by the R2.8 when I was there.

Have you unplugged the egr as a test?

[RePowerToy]

Don’t buy an EGR, I have one in a box that was removed from a pre emissions build.
txt me or call if you need it
505eight50three079

[nuffsaid]

Have you logged into Cummins where you can look up the codes and stuff?

I suggest finding a local Cummins service center or whatever they are called and they seem to be pretty helpful, though they seemed very surprised by the R2.8 when I was there.

Have you unplugged the egr as a test?

Yes, I unplugged egr and Maf and then new codes popped up that I was able to clear, but the 1896 code is still there.

[nuffsaid]

Don’t buy an EGR, I have one in a box that was removed from a pre emissions build.
txt me or call if you need it
505eight50three079

I hope I don't need to purchase one, I only have 17 hours of run time on this engine and I just got the rest of my parts on June 25th and that is when I was told warranty will start. In all honesty, I would like to delete the egr.

[nuffsaid]

Have you logged into Cummins where you can look up the codes and stuff?

I suggest finding a local Cummins service center or whatever they are called and they seem to be pretty helpful, though they seemed very surprised by the R2.8 when I was there.

Have you unplugged the egr as a test?

Yes, I logged into cummins and did the code conversion from the murphy gauge and that's where I came up with the 1896 code. The info I looked at in the cummins resource says to clean the egr, but with 17 hours of run time, my thought would be it is defective and sticking and needs to be replaced.

[Sanders]

It would be strange to see a fault on an EGR valve for the R2.8, especially at the limited run time. One thing I would double check is that you don't have a connector loose anywhere or a wire contacting anything hot and causing a short in the harness. You could do a continuity test on the harness to make sure. Below is some info some QSOL on the fault itself and how to clear it.

You can also call 1-800 Cummins and they should be able to walk you through the warranty process if you do end up needing a part or the trouble shooting at a branch.

From QuickServe:

When the keyswitch is initially turned ON and at various times during engine operation, the closed position of the EGR valve is checked. This diagnostic checks to make sure the EGR valve is not stuck open.

The EGR valve will close when the fault code is active. The fault code will remain active until the next key cycle.

After repair or to see if issue is corrected:

• To validate the repair, bring the engine up to operating temperature and run it in normal loaded conditions for 15 minutes.

• Turn the key switch OFF and allow the ECM to completely powerdown.

• Start and idle the engine for 1 minute

• The fault code status displayed by the recommended Cummins electronic service tool or equivalent will change to INACTIVE immediately after the diagnostic runs and passes.

• The ECM will turn off the amber CHECK ENGINE lamp immediately after the diagnostic runs and passes.

[nuffsaid]

Steve, I found this same information on quickserve and I followed the above instructions and performed the clearing process at least 6 times. I also unplugged the MAF and it set a different code that I was able to immediately clear. Then I unplugged the EGR connecter and it threw another code that I was also able to clear, but the 1896 code is still present. I am thinking that the egr valve is stuck open and hence it won't clear. I have seen EGR valves on other diesels stick open when the engines have low hours, however they usually create a driveability issue and I don't seem to have that. When this code set, I mistakenly thought that it was related to engine overheating, which it turns out it wasn't, but I had no way to check it out from where I was. Wires are all routed cleanly away from heat sources.

[nuffsaid]

Follow up, I got my mechanical fan adapter from quickdraw and installed it, I used the stock 4.0 fan shroud and fan. I needed to run the fan shroud upside down to fit the offset of the engine. Cooling isn't an issue now, engine runs at least 25 degrees cooler than with the electric fan. Still fighting the 1896 code. I removed the plastic cover from the EGR valve and everything inside moves freely. I think there is either a wiring issue or a circuit issue in the EGR electonics because the EGR is failing the self calibration test. One other thing that is strange is that according to the murphy gauge it logs how many times the fault code comes up and the count on the EGR is (1) but it has never cleared. I might see if I can find a local Cummins dealer to check it under warranty, but the closest one is in Cody, WY and that is 90+ miles away, good break in ride maybe.